Valle dei Templi

Temple of Concordia

 Imagine driving down the road, just looking around and suddenly you see this magnificent Greek temple up on a hill.  Just driving down the road and there it is bigger than life.  Amazing! 

Temple of Concordia

 

We took the bus from Licata to go see the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento.  Our intent was to do that the first day we were in Licata, but we missed the bus because we could not find the bus station!!  As it turned out it rained all day, so we were glad we didn't find the bus station.  However, once it quit raining we set out walking to make sure we knew where the bus station was for the next day.  We did not want to miss the bus two days in a row.  Don't you know we still could not find the darn place.  Fortunately, for us when we stopped to ask someone, this Italian fellow decided it was easier to just show us where to go.  So he kindly took us by the hand and led us to the bus stop.  We were very grateful because we definitely would have missed that bus a second time!

Temple of Heracles (Hercules)

The Valley of the Temples is just outside the city of Agrigento, which was in the 6th century BC a Greek town called Akragas.  They were fairly prosperous due to good farm land so the town went about building temples to their Gods.  The fact that even portions of those temples remain after all this time is amazing.  Even more astonishing is the preservation of the Temple of Concordia.  This temple received some special care as it was later consecrated as a Christian Basilica in the 6th century AD.  Fortunately, that gave this temple some "protected" status. 

Southern walls of Akragas

The entire city was fortified by man made walls that were incorporated with the natural stone.  It had a naturally defensible position, nestled on the hill in between valleys.  The temples are spread out over a large area with the most impressive being at the top of the hill.  We made a decision fairly quickly to take a taxi to the top and walk down.  The other choice is to walk up and then back down - so starting at the top was a no brainer for us.  

 
 

Agrigento

The area around Agrigento is beautiful and the city is quite large.  We did not visit the city but spent the day instead visiting the temples... next time.  So we finally saw what we wanted to see and now will move on from Licata.  Bad weather is coming so we want to make it as far as we can up the coast before we get stuck. 

Marina di Ragusa

Events in our life are now described as before the lightning strike or after the lightning strike!  Guess that is what is meant by a "life defining event".  Pre- lightning strike we had planned to spend the winter in Ragusa, Sicily.  The marina there is a popular spot for spending the winter (among sailors that is) and at that time we needed to be in Italy as we were attempting to obtain Italian residency

Church of San Giacoma

In reserving a berth for the winter we were required to pay a deposit.  And then the lightning strike...  So we did not make it to Marina di Ragusa but it was past the time for a refund of the deposit regardless of the circumstances.  Rather the Marina said they would give us a "voucher" good through 2023.  So we decided to use that voucher and hang out in Ragusa for a little while.

Old Monastery

We have been traveling for a bit so needed to do some cleaning, change the oil on the engine, do some laundry and grocery shopping.  That all took a few days and then we rented a car and went out to do some sight seeing.  The actual town of Ragusa (both the old part and newer part are about a 30 minute drive from the coast but so worth the drive.  In particular, Ragusa Ilba is stunning.  Winding roads with multiple hairpin turns lead you to the mountaintop where Ragusa Ilba sits overlooking the Valley Irminio below.  Italy has such an old soul and nothing reflects that better than the ancient cathedrals.

Valley Irminio

The Valley

Probably the most notable cathedral in Ragusa is the Duomo di San Giorgio.  Another UNESCO world heritage site due to its baroque architecture.  Sadly, the church was closed up and we did not get to peek inside.  You can walk down just about any street and run into one stunning cathedral after another.

Duomo di San Giorgio

Ragusa Ilba is a prime example of Baroque architecture which is prominently displayed in the balcony supports throughout the old city as well as many cathedrals.  These stone carved supports are so animated and expressive.  

Baroque balcony supports

 It was a very nice day away from the boat for awhile.  Although Italians are even worse drivers than Turks.  If they decide to pass a car they just do it... passing right between the car they are passing and the one coming towards them!!  Unbelievable.  I just had to close my eyes and pray that no one crashed.  So the trip was fun... the driving not so much. 
 

Ortiga Island -- Siracusa, Sicily

 

Siracusa, Sicily

If I had to describe Italy in one word, that word would be old.  She is like your grandmother - worn but beautiful.  If buildings could talk.  Sicily was not always Italian and its actually only been a part of Italy since 1860.  Siracusa was Greek and the home of Archimedes one of the greatest mathematicians of all time and most definitely the most significant mathematician of his time.  Today Archimedes is celebrated in Siracusa but it was actually a Roman soldier that ended his life.  

Ortiga Island

We stayed at a marina on Ortiga Island which is connected to Siracusa by a bridge.  We loved this little island, our favorite place in Sicily so far.  Touristy, yet charming.  We spent a couple of days just getting lost in all the narrow, winding streets.  I love the ancient feel, beautiful cathedrals and the fresh food.  I cannot figure out why tomatoes taste so good here.  Like garden tomatoes at home only much sweeter.  Food is just normal - it has not been doctored to look nice in the grocery store.  Fruits and vegetables are not perfect to look at but the taste is so much better. 

Castello Maniace

 Perfectly situated on the promontory overlooking the entrance to the bay on Ortiga Island is Castello Maniace.  Originally built in 1232, the only way in was via a drawbridge over a moat.  Sadly, neither the drawbridge or the moat exist any longer.  A prominent feature of this castle is the amazing portal.  Beyond that it is all about the ability to shoot cannons at invaders.  

Portal to Castle

It wasn't always just about the cannons... for many years the castle housed nobility.  But eventually it was turned into a citadel for protecting the bay and the city.  Like everything in life the castle evolved.  

Castello Maniace gun ports

 Italy has no shortage of beautiful cathedrals and Siracusa is no exception.  Duomo di Siracusa was at one time the site of the Temple of Athena.  When the present cathedral was built in the 7th century the doric columns from the Temple of Athena were used both inside and outside the church.  The history goes so far back at this site that it is pre-historic.  It was discovered that even the very ancient Temple of Athena was not the first structure here, as determined by excavations nearby.

 

Siracusa Cathedral

The entire city of Siracusa (and Ortiga Island) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due not only to its monuments but also its cultural significance.  "Ideas, literary works and events of outstanding universal significance" coming out of Siracusa are what the nominating committee cite as reasons for the citys inclusion as a UNESCO site.  No doubt one person was the source of many of those "ideas" of universal significance - Archimedes.

Siracusa Cathedral

 

 

 

Piazza

Just a beautiful city and well worth any visit to Sicily.  Before we left we went in a few shops to buy a gift for a very close Sicilian friend from home.  The fellow in the shop was Moroccan.  We talked for a bit, bought a gift and left.  As we were walking down the sidewalk he came out of his shop and chased us down the sidewalk.  He wanted to give us a small gift - just because.  So ... he gave us a postcard of Siracusa which we gratefully accepted.  So nice to want to give a gift to a complete stranger.  We have started to look at houses in Italy😉. 
 

Mt. Etna

Mt. Etna Crater

There are three active volcanoes in Italy, Mt. Etna is the largest.  Etna covers are area of 459 square miles and is 3,357 meters high.  Although its height varies with the eruptions.  In 2021, Etna increased in height by 30 meters over a six month period due to the volcanic material added with the eruptions.  There are several craters at the summit and down lower as well.  In addition, there are "lateral" craters that pose an even greater risk as the lava flow is more likely to reach inhabited areas.  Sicilians call Etna "Madre (Mother) because she is generous in providing for them, yet also is strict and punishes them from time to time - much like a mother.

A smaller crater

 The volcanic soil is rich in minerals making the area around Etna an important agricultural region.  Orchards and vineyards abound.  So... Etna gives them food but can also destroy the area with lava.  Given enough time without lava flow the soil will begin to support plants naturally.  You can see at the top of the photo an area that is becoming forested.  You can also see the red hue from the significant amount of iron in the soil.

Blustery day on Etna

 It is pretty cold at that altitude and on the day we visited it was very windy, which added to the cold.  They have cable cars that will not take you all the way to the summit but will take you high enough to see the summit craters.  We declined and later talked to two Spanish fellows who wished they had declined!  The cable car ride in the wind was quite an adventure and then when they reached about 2500 meters the wind was so strong they could not even stand still to take photos.  

Walking in to a lateral crater

Our bravery extended to walking around the rim of this very large lateral crater and even then we thought we might be blown off the mountain!  There is snow at the summit even though it is nearly May, in the winter they actually ski on the volcano.  Did I mention, its cold up there!  

 

House collapsed from the eruption (near the stone barrier)

The good folks from Catania and the surrounding area live in the shadow of Etna.  In the not too distant past people actually built houses and lived in the area at the lower reaches of the volcano.  You cannot see this house very well but it once was a two story house until it was overrun by lava.  The people who lived there escaped in time but the house collapsed.  It is forbidden to build close to the volcano now.  That being said when Etna erupts she can send ash and rock all the way to Catania.  And that is why they say when they wake up in the morning they look to see what kind of mood Etna is in on that day.  Always in the shadow.

Lava flow areas

There is a path that goes all the way around the volcano.  You can ride your bike or hike around it.  They have cabins along the way that you can sleep in as it will take more than a day to hike around Etna.  The different sides of the volcano are completely different depending on how the lava has flowed.  Its either all black lava rock or the beginnings of vegetation or reforestation.  Always something new to see.

Enoteca dell'Etna

 Following the trip to Etna we stopped in a little town called Ragalna.  With Etna in the background of the Enoteca dell'Etna winery, we spent the rest of the afternoon tasting wine, olive pate, pepper jelly, various amazing olive oils, pistachio cream and various liqueurs.  Michael and I left the winery with some amazing goodies for ourselves and all the great cooks in our family.  A perfect day!  Our next stop will be Siracusa, Sicily and the island off of Siracusa called Ortiga Island.  Just a nice day sail from Catania. 

 

 

 
 

Catania - Sicily

Cathedral

 Another uneventful overnight passage, the most exciting part was nearing the Messina Straits.  As we got closer to the Straits the ship traffic got heavier and heavier requiring us to be even more alert.  Yet somehow we managed to get across the shipping lanes without having to dodge any tankers or cargo ships.  Amazing!  

St. Agatha Cathedral

 We had made a reservation at a marina so that we could take a day and go see Mt. Etna.  Catania is a busy commercial port but there are still a couple of marinas in the port.  As we approached the marina I hailed them on the VHF radio... no answer.  I tried again... no answer.  So I picked up my phone and called the marina.  Someone answered and when I asked if he spoke English he hung up.  We have had this experience before - Italians speak Italian.  And being a visitor in this country I should also speak Italian (which I am learning) but being both a slow learner and an arrogant American, I wanted to speak in my language.  So we hovered outside the marina trying to figure out what to do.

Dinner!!

Before long we saw all this activity at the dock.  Several people were standing out there, also trying to figure out what to do.  Finally, someone waved us over and no fewer than six people helped us get docked.  Everyone was so helpful and friendly.  Later we found out that they  never see American boats there, so they were stunned.  And pleased, I think (hope).  I made a vow right then - I will speak to Italians in Italian.  

Another Cathedral

We got checked in, had a well deserved nap and then headed off on a walk into to town looking for some dinner.  Next day we set off to explore the town and the beautiful cathedrals.  We were surprised to meet a young man at the marina (on the sailboat across from us) from Florida.  A very good kid who is out exploring the world in his own way.  He filled us in on some things about Sicily.  Like what the Guarda Costeria does with the boats that they confiscate from human traffickers (those folks illegally bringing migrants to Italy).  The fee for putting your life in extreme danger for the very slim chance of reaching Europe is 9000.00 euro.  How destitute and desperate people come up with that kind of money is a mystery.  Often the boats capsize or sink but some are confiscated.  Three sailboats and one fishing boat were at the dock - all seized by the Guarda Costeria.  Eventually, they give those boats to local non-profits.  For instance, the sailboats are given to a non-profit that is teaching kids to sail.  Its nice to think of some good coming out of that tragic situation.

Sculpture

 

Catania is a city of contrasts.  There are beautiful cathedrals and sculptures that live in trash strewn streets.  People are so conscious of how they dress, they plant flowers in flower boxes and sweep the dirt from the front of their shops - all while the trash literally floats in the air on a breezy day.  Its a bit hard to comprehend because we know that the trash detracts from all the beauty... yet they don't seem to notice.  Regardless, it did not make me like the city less.  As a matter of fact when I heard someone suggest that Catania be bypassed as it was just a "sh- - hole" - I took offense.  I immediately thought of all those folks that came to help us dock Talaria.  There is good and bad everywhere - often side by side.  We prefer to look for the good.

   

Restaurant

We were enjoying Catania and the folks we met there.  Maybe our experience is not like the experience that others have had here, but I would not bypass the town.  We think it is worth a visit.

Across the Gulf of Taranto

Tanker

 

We set off early as planned, knowing that we would have a windless day of motoring.  In the Med folks say there is either "too much wind or not enough wind".  We have certainly found that to be true.  Not just in the Med but also the Aegean, Adriatic and Ionian seas.  Its just a fact, that some days sailboats will be motor boats.  So... on this day we were a motor boat.  The day was nice and sunny so we did not mind too much.

 

Tanker

As we were motoring along we found this huge tanker in our path.  Now ordinarily we do not get within a mile of these ships but our AIS (automated information system) showed he was not moving.  Hmm... finally we called him on the VHF and asked if we could pass in front of him.  Another thing we would ordinarily never do - pass in front of a tanker or cargo ship.  The Captain replied that he was just drifting so we could continue on our path.  We did - but its still just a bit unnerving seeing that big ship so close.  Just for perspective that ship was 820 feet long and 150 feet wide!  That is nearly 20 times the size of our little sailboat😟. 

Sunrise at Sea

Surprising things happen when you are out at sea.  We have had birds hitchhike before but on this day we had a baby owl hitch a ride.  Of course, owls are not sea birds and we were at least 20 miles or more from land when we noticed him.  He was clearly tired because even though he kept a keen eye on us anytime we moved, he did not fly away.  

Baby owl hitchhiker

It was actually not until we had almost reached the port that he flew away.  All told he rode right in that spot by the mast for about four hours.  We could not imagine how he got that far from land but were glad to have helped him make it back to the shore.

Kroton Yachting Club

Crotone is a fishing village, not a touristy town.  After getting settled in we took a little walk through town and discovered several pesciaria's.  They were all doing a brisk business.  We located a little grocery, made some dinner and called it a night.  Our plan was to sleep in the next day and leave about noon for another overnight.  So long as we made it to Catania by 1400 the next day we would avoid sailing into a headwind.  We figured we could make the trip in 26 hours or less.  

Crotone

In the end, we left before noon but still felt rested.  We had to wait for the "fuel man" to come and let us fill our fuel tanks before we could leave.  He was a funny guy - he had a ten dollar bill from 1955 and wanted to know if it was still good.  Michael told him if it were from 1930 it would still spend!  Not that he can spend USD in Italy but I suppose its always good to know if the money is good.  After fuel we were off - next stop is Sicily.

Santa Maria di Leuca, Italy

Santa Maria di Leuca lighthouse (and Corinthian Column)

We opted not to stay in Otranto as we needed to work on the outboard and only trusted the anchorage in settled weather.  So the next morning we set sail for Santa Maria di Leuca.  Historical references to this town date all the way back to the time of Thucydides and Virgil.  Santa Maria di Leuca is mentioned in Virgil's Aeneid.  While known for its imposing lighthouse that rises 47 meters from its position 102 meters above sea level, the town is also known as a town that St. Peter passed through during his travels in Italy. To honor that passage a Basilica was built up by the lighthouse.  Should you choose to go up the nearly 300 steps to the Basilica you can visit it and the lighthouse.  

Cross commemorating the passage of St. Peter

There are a few legends surrounding the town which was originally called just Leuca.  Later Santa Maria was added, as one legend has it that the Virgin Mary saved some boats from a storm here.  Hence, their devotion to Saint Mary.  In truth, the town was founded by some monks in the 1st century following the passage of St. Peter.  The legends are just legends.

 

Santa Maria di Leuca

No doubt Santa Maria di Leuca is a busy little town in the season, but we found a sleepy town.  April is a bit early for tourists.  We struggled to find someplace to eat, however we had a nice walk around the town while searching for an open restaurant. The marina itself is only good in settled weather and even then there is considerable swell.  We spent one night at the marina and the next night at anchor in the bay.  Our plan was to leave around 0500 for Crotone (a 70 nm passage) and it is easier to just pull up the anchor rather than departing from the marina in the dark.  

 

Talaria at Porto Santa Maria di Leuca

I like to think that we grow wiser as time goes by ... I don't know that its true, but I do like the thought.  In that regard, we are trying to make our way down to Sicily with the wind in our favor.  Bashing into waves and struggling to make progress against a heavy head wind is not our idea of a good sailing day.  We have a long day to reach Crotone, but will not linger there.  We will sleep late and then do another overnight passage to Catania in Sicily before the wind shifts.  And then we will slow down and rest a bit 😎.