The day we have been waiting for...

There it is... according to Emanual "A thing of beauty".  Its a guy thing!  And there is my guy inspecting that engine with reverence.  For my part so long as it works when we need it to and gives little to no trouble - I am good.  We resolved all of the installation and matching old with new issues. All that was involved were a few interior adaptations so the engine would slide into place and some machining of parts.  Now the installation can proceed.  But first we have to get the engine into the boat!

Emanual has a fancy truck with a lift to pick the engine up, then its just a matter of maneuvering it through the hatch.  Easy, right?  Well, actually Emanual and crew did make it look easy regardless of the tension involved.  I have a video but it is unfortunately too long to post here.  Getting the engine in the boat proved to be a bit easier than the actual installation.  That was a hard day - jiggling the engine this way and that for the alignment.  Lo and behold the engine started right up and we set a departure day... which would be the next day.  Now, one view would be to do a sea trial before heading out on a 6 day passage.  But... we likely would not discover issues on a 30 min to 1 hour sea trial.  So... we will depart for Lagos, Portugal (the mainland) and that will be our sea trial.  By the time we get to the end of the island we will have been out for 4 to 5 hours - that will give us enough time to discover issues and return if need be.  Or that is our reasoning anyway and the decision we have made.  So... that's it, time to leave Sao Miquel and finally finish our transatlantic crossing.  

Hot Spring in the Sea??

Maria Concordia, one of the ARC rally boats finally made it to Sao Miquel.  The skipper had lost his crew in Bermuda and ended up sailing his Catamaran across the Atlantic Ocean solo.  He did manage to pick up crew in Horta so he was no longer alone by the time he reached Sao Miquel.  Bernard and his crew member were telling us tales of a volcanic hot spring in the ocean.  We have seen them inland but never in the ocean.  The yellow bus tour does not visit the ocean hot spring so Bill, Michael and I set off to find it.  Emanual had wanted us off the boat so we rented a car and a house in a little village called Santana. Our plan was to take Bill to see the Island and for Michael and I to see the things that we had missed. That ended up being a mistake as the phone service was poor and Emanual had tried to reach us all day long.  All work had come to an end as there were questions about how to actually get the engine in the boat and we, sadly, could not be reached.  But we found the hot spring and as it was just off the coast in the ocean we had to walk down to the ocean from way up the mountain.  That was not so bad but all the way down we were well aware that we also had to climb back up.  Michael is good with walking all day so long as it is level ground!  All this mountain climbing has ruffled his feathers.

We made it down and sure enough there is a little spring right there on the coast.  They have a ladder to get down into it and there is line run from one side of the spring to the other.  Folks were holding on to the line so they did not get washed out to sea with the tide.  You can see the volcanic rock all around - pretty rugged terrain.  We did not have swim clothes on so again I cannot say how warm the water actually was.  

 I was trying to get down the ladder to just put my feet in and test the temperature but there was such a crowd around the one ladder I couldn't even do that.  

You most certainly know that you are on a volcanic island from the terrain - black volcanic rock all around.  After the long hike back up the mountain we headed back to Ponta Delgada to see how things were coming along with the engine installation- finger crossed that all was going well.

Furnas

Waterwheel

Furnas is one of the larger towns on Sao Miquel.  It is the site of an active volcano.  There are two main calderas and there are several thousand people that live around the volcano.  It is considered one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the Azores. 

These houses are some of the most beautiful homes I have seen in the Azores and they are literally right across the street from the fumaroles.  The fumaroles are in the center of town and as you approach the smell of sulphur is strong.  Fumaroles are openings in the earths crust near a volcano where hot sulphurous gases escape. 

 This is what the folks here see everyday and yet they just go about their business.  We were the only ones ready to run if the ground started to shake!

 The steam and smoke from the fumaroles just envelopes the whole area.  As you walk near them you can actually feel the heat under your feet.

 And there are boiling hot springs.  It is quite an experience to sit and watch the water boil from the volcano underneath.  They actually have a restaurant here where they put a stew in the ground and the heat from the volcano cooks the food.  

 We made this trip to Furnas with our good friend Bill.  He arrived from the US to help us make the final passage.  The engine arrived and Emanual is busy with the installation.  So we rented a car to take Bill to see the island while Emanual worked.

 Bill is holding his breath while I snap a picture.  Trying hard not to breath in all that volcanic gas.

Furnas is a beautiful area also but I do not think I could bring myself to live that close to an active volcano.  Just a little too close for comfort. 

Sete Cidades

The blue and green lakes

Sete Cidades (Seven Cities) lake is where Emanual (the mechanic) says he goes to de-stress.  It is his favorite place and its not hard to figure out why.  There are two lakes separated by a land bridge - one is green,the other blue.  Again, the photos do not do them justice.  They are stunning.  Now, of course, there is an ecological reason for the different colors of the lakes.  

Sete Cidades

But I prefer the legend instead.  The story goes like this: there once was a King whose Queen had died and so now he lived only for his beautiful daughter.  But he kept her isolated in his Castle and only allowed her out into the gardens.  But as he slept after his lunch with the help of her nurse she set out to explore the land around her.  One day she heard some beautiful flute music.  Everyday thereafter she sought out the music and found that is was a shepherd playing the flute.  They fell in love and eventually went to the King so the shepherd could ask for her hand in marriage.  The King of course denied the request and forbade her from seeing the shepherd again.  When the princess told the shepherd they could not see each other again they cried and their tears formed the two lakes.  Her eyes were green and the shepherd had blue eyes.  

Sao Nicholas Church

 The village itself is small, but there are hiking trails all around the lake.  Or you can rent a kayak and enjoy the lakes that way.  

Home in Sete Cidades

 There is a story that goes along with how the village got its name as well.  As there definitely are not seven cities here.  Its actually a historical reference dating all the way back to the Phoenicians nonetheless the Portuguese kept the name - Sete Cidades.  

Many, many cows in the Azores

A truly beautiful place and a perfect day.

Lake and Mountains

Lagoa das Empadadas - another stop on the "yellow bus" tour.  Of course, we jumped off and followed everyone else on a hike to the lake.  It looked like the start of a gentle slope but it ended up being a bit of an uphill climb to the lake.  We made it to the lake - so far, so good.

But once we reached the lake we noticed that most everyone else kept hiking on up the road.  As it turns out nearly everyone was headed to the top of that mountain - for the views!!  We should have paid attention to the warning signs at the entrance regarding the steep grade.  But that was for cars, right - not us we were hiking!

 I am proud to say that although we did not reach the very top we came awfully darn close.  Talk about a climb - Michael was pretty sure that I had a secret plot to do him in!
Needless to say we have been shedding the pounds while here in Sao Miquel - all we do is walk, all day long.

 The views from the almost tip top were phenomenal.  And you would think okay so its all downhill from here - true - but it was such a steep grade it was work going down as well.

 II am actually holding on the the wall here because the grade is so steep.  

 We were pretty happy to get back on the bus for a little rest before the next stop - another lake/lagoon.  Lagoa do Canario.  Pretty place to see but no hiking there!

 The ferns and trees are so large - they love this climate.  I love it as well - 70s most days - not too hot, not too cold.  Nearly everyday there is a breeze and it rains often.  Not for long - it will just rain for an hour or so.  Just enough to keep the plants happy.

And the best part is that the weather is fairly consistent year round.  70s during the day and down to 60s at night.  Perfect sleeping weather.  It is just very, very comfortable. 

Ribeira Grande, Sao Miquel

One of the Yellow Bus stops is the town of Ribeira Grande.  The town is named for the river that runs through it.  Ribeira Grande is known for its rich architecture - with buildings dating back to the 16th century.

 The architecture is impressive.  And in the middle of town where the river runs they put in a nice park with flower gardens. 

We did not hang out there for a very long - but it was nice to stop and see the town.

After our short stop in Ribeira Grande we hopped back on the bus to see the rest of the stops on this side of the Island.

The Highlands of Sao Miquel

Path to Caldeira Velha

As I was fretting over when the engine would arrive, Emanual the mechanic said "Have you seen the Island yet?"  Well no we hadn't - all thoughts were on when the engine would arrive.  He proceeded to show me all his favorite places in the highlands of the Island on the computer.  So... we decided to jump on a Yellow Bus and go check out the highlands.  The Yellow Tour Bus is a hop on/hop off bus - we got a two day ticket - a day on each side of the Island.  The first day took us to the eastern side of the Island.  

Caldeira Velha

 We got off the bus at Caldeira Velha - an area of natural hot springs.  All of the Azores are volcanic islands, the Fogo Volcano heats up these springs.  The whole area is lush and has the largest ferns I have ever seen.

Natural Hot Springs at Caldeira Velha

 There is a waterfall flowing into the hot spring.  The iron in the water gives it an orange hue - not great on the clothes, but these kids don't seem to mind.  

Boiling Spring

 This spring is very near the bathing spring but here the water is actually boiling.  You can see the steam coming up from the spring.

Steam from the Spring

We did not actually get in the water so I can't say how warm it actually was but it looked pretty warm.

Lagoa do Fogo - "Fire Lake"

 Our next stop was at Lagoa do Fogo or "Fire Lake".  Stunningly beautiful!  This lake is actually in the volcanic crater.  If you look thru the V you can see the Atlantic Ocean.  The same Atlantic Ocean that we just sailed across! 

 From the highlands we had good view of the towns and patchwork fields down below.  Just beautiful - a nature lovers paradise.  A trip to the Azores should be on everyone's bucket list - it is not to be missed.