Exploring the East Coast... Florida to North Carolina

Rodriquez Key

After the trip to Cuba I had to return to my "working life" world for awhile.  So for two months I worked away in Kentucky and then returned in April to continue on our journey.  The goal is to see the East Coast and with any luck make it as far north as Canada.  Where to from there is the big unknown - lots of ideas, no solid plans.  The plan was to leave Marathon on Monday 4/11/2016 which was what we did but we immediately had trouble.  We had just made it past the entrance channel buoys when diesel fuel started poring into our bilge.  Fortunately, we had not gotten very far and were able to turn around and get back into the Marina.  A little investigating revealed a split fuel line.  So we replaced the line, cleaned the bilge and decided to try again.  On Wednesday, the 13th of April we set out again with the intention of sailing up the coast to Rodriquez Key. 

A couple more boats anchored near us at Rodriquez Key

It was a beautiful day even though we had a head wind most of the day.  The engine had been idling back and we had to change the Raycor fuel filters and even bled the fuel lines once.  Of course, as soon as we were approaching Rodriquez Key our engine began to seriously act up.  And of course, that was when Homeland Security decided to stop us again.  I did ask this time if they would mind waiting till we set the anchor before they boarded the boat.  They asked the usual questions about weapons (we have none) and then said they would not need to come on board.  Thank goodness - it was hard to focus on anchoring, the engine and homeland security all at the same time!  By now it was 4:00 pm and we were ready to relax and cook some dinner.  Rodriquez Key is just a small island off the coast so we were anchored near it but still on the Atlantic.  Lots of ocean out there! 

The tip of Rodriquez Key - lots of ocean out there!

Even though we were  somewhat unprotected out there the weather was perfect and the seas calm.  Turned out to be a restful night.

Sailboats anchored near Tavernier Key

 

 

Sun setting at Rodriquez Key Anchorage

There were a couple of boats that left Marathon when we did but they only made it as far as Tavernier Key.  Its that time of year when "boating snowbirds" start heading back north so we expect to have company.  Tomorrow we set sail for Miami.
 


 

Departure Day

Marina Hemingway

The internet is spotty in Cuba most days and some days nonexistent.  Well, of course, on the day when we REALLY need to check the weather the internet is nonexistent.  And we had lots of company - seems everyone was looking for that window to return to Key West.  All we could do at that point was rely on the last weather report we had and pray that nothing had changed.  So.. on Thursday the 14th of January we made the decision to bite the bullet and leave on Friday.  Friday morning we headed to the Marina office to settle up the bill.  The harbormaster told us we needed to take off - weather was coming on Saturday and if we dallied we would be in trouble.  Even though a couple of weeks had passed the gale on the way to Cuba was still fresh on our minds - we were not looking to repeat that experience.  Several others had decided to wait until Saturday but we heeded the harbormasters advice and set sail.  

Talaria docked at Marina Hemingway

We were finally able to depart around 1030 and the weather was fine.  Good wind and lots of sunshine.  Around 1400 we started to see a squall line heading straight for us.  We put a reef in the mainsail and in the next minute it was upon us.  It got very rough for a bit but fortunately it was short lived!  The rest of the day and night was fairly smooth sailing.
By 2330 we were seeing the lights of Key West!!  Yippy!  We decided to try and slow down a bit in order to reach Key West in daylight.  But we quickly decided that was futile and we would just enter Hawks Channel in the dark and do our best to dodge the crab pots.  By 0230 we had reached Hawks Channel and were making our way to Marathon.    

  

Some other folks that visited Marina Hemingway - they left their mark!

By 0930 we had reached Marathon and were safely tied up to the dock.  And by early evening we were thanking our lucky stars that we had left as the weather turned wicked.  Fierce 30 plus knot winds all from the north would have made it very difficult to make any headway.  We were never so happy to be having cocktails in the safety of the marina as we were that evening!!  And no-one dared mention that we had departed on a Friday - all sailors know that leaving for a trip on a Friday is bad luck.  When we got back we all mentioned it and acknowledged our fear of that departure day.  And then we congratulated ourselves for beating the odds! 

Castillo del Morro

Castillo del Morro

Apparently, I forgot to say "hold the ice" at Sia Kara - the cute little Cafe we stopped at for lunch while out scoping out Cuban cigars.  Another Dillard sick as a dog!  For two full days I could barely move, let alone eat or drink anything.  Horrible!  Michael is still not 100% so he is fine staying in bed - but poor Kris and Roger are having to share a space (a small space) with two very ill people.  And it has rained for two days.  Finally, on Tuesday we were able to make it to El Morro.  The fort sits right at the entrance to Havana Harbor.  Built in 1589 in response to raids on the harbor El Morro held tight until 1762 when the fort was captured by the British.  

Killing Field

Michael and Roger tell me that what looks like a waterless moat was actually the "killing field".  Bodies trying to take the fort would collect there for later disposal I presume.  

Interior areas in El Morro

This is really one big fort.  You can see where they rolled things down from the upper levels and all the little cubbies for storing stuff - like cannonballs maybe.  

 That is Havana harbor right behind Michael.  It would be daunting sailing in there with all those cannons pointed right at you.  

Really big fort

Walk up to El Morro

Lighthouse at the fort

 

La Cabana

 

After the capture of El Morro by the British and the eventual return to Spain they were acutely aware of El Morro's vulnerability by land.  So they built La Cabana a sister fort to essentially protect El Morro's backside.  In later years, La Cabana was used to house and torture political prisoners by the Castro brothers.  

1956 Pontiac Super Chief with a continental kit

Great day at El Morro - it was on our bucket list for the trip.  Rainy all day but that did not deter us from hopping in this red convertible for our ride back to Marina Hemingway. Cruising down the Malecon in a red convertible - what could be better.  

Partagas

January 11, 2016

Michael is ill.  A little Montezuma's revenge likely.  I gave him some Immodium and Kris, Roger and I headed out to catch the 10:00 am bus.  We decided to go to the Art Barn and do a little shopping.  There was alot of art mass produced to sell to the new tourists as they get off the cruise ship - but there was also some really good art mixed in.  We all left there with a couple of paintings.  It was about an hour long bus ride all around Havana before we actually arrived at the Art Barn.  That was actually very cool as we sat on top of the double decker bus and had a nice birds eye view of areas in Havana that we had not seen yet.

At the Copa - Copacabana...

For instance we drove past the Copacabana!  How cool is that?  Its fairly run down now - but the hotel certainly had its day.  Leaving the Art Barn we decided to look for Partagas - the premier cigar factory/store in Havana.  Walking down the street looking for Partagas

On the way to Partagas

 

a fellow stopped us - obvious to him what we were looking for on that street.  He told us the store was closed and they were on vacation so wouldn't reopen for a week.  However, if we followed him he could find us some good cigars to purchase.  Roger and Kris took off with the guy until he started leading them down a long, dark hallway in some building.  Then they changed their minds.  We had given up on cigars and were walking back to Parque Central when we happened to walk right by Partagas.  AND they were open!!  The scoundrel almost caused us to come home cigar-less.  Had a grand time shopping for cigars and as luck would have it we ran into a fellow who both spoke good English and knew his cigars.  He helped us out with our selections and we were happy Americans in Cuba!  After our pilgrimage to Partagas we were looking for a little bohemian cafe that we had seen along the way.  We had a very nice lunch at Sia Kara and then headed to Calle Obispo looking for some Cuban perfume for Kris - unfortunately we have had no luck with the perfume.  So... we jumped back on the double decker bus and headed to the top deck for our ride back to Marina Hemingway.  Found Michael still very ill so I went ahead and started him on some Cipro.  Must heed the caution to not drink the water or you will pay a heavy price!