Back to New Bern, North Carolina

Church in Essex, CT

Our plan forever changes... just when you think you are set the weather report changes yet again!  We got all involved with trying to fix the autopilot and didn't check the weather for a day or two.  That was a mistake as in that length of time everything changed.  We had planned to go up the coast overnight from Cape May, NJ to Norfolk, VA.  The day we had planned to go looked alright but by the time we would arrive in Virginia the wind would be blowing 30 knots steady!  So we took off instead and headed up the Delaware Bay to the Chesapeake/Delaware Canal.  We had high hopes that we would make it all the way to Delaware City in one day - unfortunately that did not happen.  We ended up anchoring in the Cohansey river for two nights as the wind picked up again the next day.  High winds against a strong current makes for a treacherous situation.  So we waited... again.

Regatta on Long Island Sound

Once we got to the canal that connects the Chesapeake Bay and Delaware Bay we were golden.  Over a week of perfect weather.  So we made our way down the Chesapeake and onto the AICW pretty quickly.  Amazing how fast you can move with good weather!

East River - New York City

 We made it back to New Bern before predicted thunderstorms - it was raining when we arrived but no lightening.  So that's it - we have sailed up the entire east coast.  Now we are setting our sites on Europe.  2018 will be spent upgrading the boat and preparing ourselves for a transatlantic crossing. Spring 2019 we plan to join a rally and sail to the Mediterranean.  Stay tuned.

Off loading platform for oil tankers in the Chesapeake Bay

Sunrises and Sunsets

Sunrise over Atlantic Highlands, NJ

We did finally make it to the Connecticut river two days before we were to have high winds from hurricane Jose which would be skirting the coast of Long Island.  Enough time to stow all our canvas, rent a car and get a hotel room for the night.  But, of course, as Jose had done all along - he stalled.  So the night we spent in a hotel was mild but when we got back on the boat the wind came.  Truly it wasn't too bad though - we had weathered a rougher night in Maine during a nor'easter.  We stayed on the Connecticut river a couple of days but once the wind calmed down enough we took off.  Now we were trying to make it to Cape May, NJ before hurricane Maria started moving up the east coast.  Forever dodging hurricanes!

 We sailed from Essex, CT to Port Jefferson, NY.  It was one rough day on Long Island Sound!  We got hit by some pretty big waves and were very glad to reach our destination that day.  Our "weather window" to reach Cape May, NJ was fairly short.  The winds from hurricane Maria were going to be pretty high and the sea was all churned up.  NOAA was predicting 27 foot waves in the coastal waters!  We wanted no part of that.  

Sunset - Cohansey River

 So - the next day we went all the way through NY harbor and over to Atlantic Highlands, NJ.  We wanted to reach Cape May within three days as that was all the time we had.  At least if we reached Cape May we had options.  If the weather wasn't settled enough to sail on the ocean we could always travel up the Delaware Bay and then down to Chesapeake Bay.  From there we could get on the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway all the way to New Bern, NC.  

 Our plan was good and we did reach Cape May just in the nick of time.  The next day the wind was blowing 20-30 knots and stayed that way for several days.  Unfortunately, that wind prevented us from going up the Delaware as well.  There we sat stuck in Cape May, NJ waiting for an opportunity to either make an overnight run for Norfolk or up the Delaware.  Hurricane Maria was just off the coast of Cape Hatteras.  Time for laundry and working on the autopilot which has decided to quit working. 

Into the Mystic

So we left Martha's Vineyard on the 14th of September to sail to Cuttyhunk.  Cuttyhunk is the only one of the Elizabeth Islands that is not privately owned.  From there our goal was to sail to Stonington, CT on Long Island Sound and then to Essex, CT.  Essex is about 5 miles up the Connecticut river, also off of Long Island Sound, which we hoped would be far enough from any weather related to hurricane Jose. 

Cuttyhunk Island

 It was foggy that morning and we had to wait till the tidal current was in our favor to make the passage.  By mid-morning we thought the fog was clearing enough so we took off.  But... the further we sailed into Vineyard Sound the thicker the fog became.  It was like sailing into a huge cloud.  We could not see a thing so we chickened out and turned around determined to try again the next day.  

Cuttyhunk Ferry Terminal

As planned the next day we set out again.  Initially, we thought it looked a bit better but once again the further we sailed into Vineyard Sound the foggier it became.  This time we decided to turn on our radar and keep going as we were running out of options.  We could not wait any longer as we had to get away from there and to our safe spot before Jose reached the area.  There is a passage that you have to go thru between the islands called Quick's Hole.  There is land on either side of the passage - but we saw no land or bouys.  We did not even see the huge fishing boat that passed right by us.  The only way we knew he was there was by his call to us on the VHF radio.  He said I am going to pass you - hold your course.  And then he sounded his foghorn once past.  We heard the horn but never saw the boat!!

Mooring field at Cuttyhunk

Right as we reached Cuttyhunk the fog cleared enough for us to get through the inlet.  And then about an hour later the fog just settled right down again and everything disappeared. 

Cuttyhunk is a very small island with a handful of full time residents.  Sailors love to visit though because it is such a unique place.  And we were able to get some Quahog which I love!

No Wal-Mart here.  This little market is all there is.  If you want anything else you have to take the ferry to the mainland.

Cuttyhunk Grocery

The next day our goal was Stonington, CT.  When we got up the fog was again so thick you could see next to nothing.

We kept waiting and waiting for the fog to lift but it was not going to happen.  Finally, when we were able to see the jetty for a few minutes we took off thinking if we can just get through the inlet surely the fog won't be as thick on Buzzard's Bay.  We were totally wrong about that. The fog was just as thick on Buzzard's Bay.  Our goal was Stonington but in light of the fog we changed course for Newport, RI.  The fog was so thick we could barely see past the bow of the boat.  As we were entering Newport Harbor we started seeing all kinds of boats on the radar!  Fortunately, the fog suddenly lifted as there were many, many boats in the harbor.  The boat show was that weekend and there was a regatta.  Thank goodness for small favors!

Cuttyhunk Inlet

All told we spent four long days sailing through dense fog.  Trying times for sure.  One thing for sure we were able to hone our radar skills!