Valle dei Templi

Temple of Concordia

 Imagine driving down the road, just looking around and suddenly you see this magnificent Greek temple up on a hill.  Just driving down the road and there it is bigger than life.  Amazing! 

Temple of Concordia

 

We took the bus from Licata to go see the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento.  Our intent was to do that the first day we were in Licata, but we missed the bus because we could not find the bus station!!  As it turned out it rained all day, so we were glad we didn't find the bus station.  However, once it quit raining we set out walking to make sure we knew where the bus station was for the next day.  We did not want to miss the bus two days in a row.  Don't you know we still could not find the darn place.  Fortunately, for us when we stopped to ask someone, this Italian fellow decided it was easier to just show us where to go.  So he kindly took us by the hand and led us to the bus stop.  We were very grateful because we definitely would have missed that bus a second time!

Temple of Heracles (Hercules)

The Valley of the Temples is just outside the city of Agrigento, which was in the 6th century BC a Greek town called Akragas.  They were fairly prosperous due to good farm land so the town went about building temples to their Gods.  The fact that even portions of those temples remain after all this time is amazing.  Even more astonishing is the preservation of the Temple of Concordia.  This temple received some special care as it was later consecrated as a Christian Basilica in the 6th century AD.  Fortunately, that gave this temple some "protected" status. 

Southern walls of Akragas

The entire city was fortified by man made walls that were incorporated with the natural stone.  It had a naturally defensible position, nestled on the hill in between valleys.  The temples are spread out over a large area with the most impressive being at the top of the hill.  We made a decision fairly quickly to take a taxi to the top and walk down.  The other choice is to walk up and then back down - so starting at the top was a no brainer for us.  

 
 

Agrigento

The area around Agrigento is beautiful and the city is quite large.  We did not visit the city but spent the day instead visiting the temples... next time.  So we finally saw what we wanted to see and now will move on from Licata.  Bad weather is coming so we want to make it as far as we can up the coast before we get stuck. 

Marina di Ragusa

Events in our life are now described as before the lightning strike or after the lightning strike!  Guess that is what is meant by a "life defining event".  Pre- lightning strike we had planned to spend the winter in Ragusa, Sicily.  The marina there is a popular spot for spending the winter (among sailors that is) and at that time we needed to be in Italy as we were attempting to obtain Italian residency

Church of San Giacoma

In reserving a berth for the winter we were required to pay a deposit.  And then the lightning strike...  So we did not make it to Marina di Ragusa but it was past the time for a refund of the deposit regardless of the circumstances.  Rather the Marina said they would give us a "voucher" good through 2023.  So we decided to use that voucher and hang out in Ragusa for a little while.

Old Monastery

We have been traveling for a bit so needed to do some cleaning, change the oil on the engine, do some laundry and grocery shopping.  That all took a few days and then we rented a car and went out to do some sight seeing.  The actual town of Ragusa (both the old part and newer part are about a 30 minute drive from the coast but so worth the drive.  In particular, Ragusa Ilba is stunning.  Winding roads with multiple hairpin turns lead you to the mountaintop where Ragusa Ilba sits overlooking the Valley Irminio below.  Italy has such an old soul and nothing reflects that better than the ancient cathedrals.

Valley Irminio

The Valley

Probably the most notable cathedral in Ragusa is the Duomo di San Giorgio.  Another UNESCO world heritage site due to its baroque architecture.  Sadly, the church was closed up and we did not get to peek inside.  You can walk down just about any street and run into one stunning cathedral after another.

Duomo di San Giorgio

Ragusa Ilba is a prime example of Baroque architecture which is prominently displayed in the balcony supports throughout the old city as well as many cathedrals.  These stone carved supports are so animated and expressive.  

Baroque balcony supports

 It was a very nice day away from the boat for awhile.  Although Italians are even worse drivers than Turks.  If they decide to pass a car they just do it... passing right between the car they are passing and the one coming towards them!!  Unbelievable.  I just had to close my eyes and pray that no one crashed.  So the trip was fun... the driving not so much. 
 

Ortiga Island -- Siracusa, Sicily

 

Siracusa, Sicily

If I had to describe Italy in one word, that word would be old.  She is like your grandmother - worn but beautiful.  If buildings could talk.  Sicily was not always Italian and its actually only been a part of Italy since 1860.  Siracusa was Greek and the home of Archimedes one of the greatest mathematicians of all time and most definitely the most significant mathematician of his time.  Today Archimedes is celebrated in Siracusa but it was actually a Roman soldier that ended his life.  

Ortiga Island

We stayed at a marina on Ortiga Island which is connected to Siracusa by a bridge.  We loved this little island, our favorite place in Sicily so far.  Touristy, yet charming.  We spent a couple of days just getting lost in all the narrow, winding streets.  I love the ancient feel, beautiful cathedrals and the fresh food.  I cannot figure out why tomatoes taste so good here.  Like garden tomatoes at home only much sweeter.  Food is just normal - it has not been doctored to look nice in the grocery store.  Fruits and vegetables are not perfect to look at but the taste is so much better. 

Castello Maniace

 Perfectly situated on the promontory overlooking the entrance to the bay on Ortiga Island is Castello Maniace.  Originally built in 1232, the only way in was via a drawbridge over a moat.  Sadly, neither the drawbridge or the moat exist any longer.  A prominent feature of this castle is the amazing portal.  Beyond that it is all about the ability to shoot cannons at invaders.  

Portal to Castle

It wasn't always just about the cannons... for many years the castle housed nobility.  But eventually it was turned into a citadel for protecting the bay and the city.  Like everything in life the castle evolved.  

Castello Maniace gun ports

 Italy has no shortage of beautiful cathedrals and Siracusa is no exception.  Duomo di Siracusa was at one time the site of the Temple of Athena.  When the present cathedral was built in the 7th century the doric columns from the Temple of Athena were used both inside and outside the church.  The history goes so far back at this site that it is pre-historic.  It was discovered that even the very ancient Temple of Athena was not the first structure here, as determined by excavations nearby.

 

Siracusa Cathedral

The entire city of Siracusa (and Ortiga Island) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due not only to its monuments but also its cultural significance.  "Ideas, literary works and events of outstanding universal significance" coming out of Siracusa are what the nominating committee cite as reasons for the citys inclusion as a UNESCO site.  No doubt one person was the source of many of those "ideas" of universal significance - Archimedes.

Siracusa Cathedral

 

 

 

Piazza

Just a beautiful city and well worth any visit to Sicily.  Before we left we went in a few shops to buy a gift for a very close Sicilian friend from home.  The fellow in the shop was Moroccan.  We talked for a bit, bought a gift and left.  As we were walking down the sidewalk he came out of his shop and chased us down the sidewalk.  He wanted to give us a small gift - just because.  So ... he gave us a postcard of Siracusa which we gratefully accepted.  So nice to want to give a gift to a complete stranger.  We have started to look at houses in Italy😉. 
 

Mt. Etna

Mt. Etna Crater

There are three active volcanoes in Italy, Mt. Etna is the largest.  Etna covers are area of 459 square miles and is 3,357 meters high.  Although its height varies with the eruptions.  In 2021, Etna increased in height by 30 meters over a six month period due to the volcanic material added with the eruptions.  There are several craters at the summit and down lower as well.  In addition, there are "lateral" craters that pose an even greater risk as the lava flow is more likely to reach inhabited areas.  Sicilians call Etna "Madre (Mother) because she is generous in providing for them, yet also is strict and punishes them from time to time - much like a mother.

A smaller crater

 The volcanic soil is rich in minerals making the area around Etna an important agricultural region.  Orchards and vineyards abound.  So... Etna gives them food but can also destroy the area with lava.  Given enough time without lava flow the soil will begin to support plants naturally.  You can see at the top of the photo an area that is becoming forested.  You can also see the red hue from the significant amount of iron in the soil.

Blustery day on Etna

 It is pretty cold at that altitude and on the day we visited it was very windy, which added to the cold.  They have cable cars that will not take you all the way to the summit but will take you high enough to see the summit craters.  We declined and later talked to two Spanish fellows who wished they had declined!  The cable car ride in the wind was quite an adventure and then when they reached about 2500 meters the wind was so strong they could not even stand still to take photos.  

Walking in to a lateral crater

Our bravery extended to walking around the rim of this very large lateral crater and even then we thought we might be blown off the mountain!  There is snow at the summit even though it is nearly May, in the winter they actually ski on the volcano.  Did I mention, its cold up there!  

 

House collapsed from the eruption (near the stone barrier)

The good folks from Catania and the surrounding area live in the shadow of Etna.  In the not too distant past people actually built houses and lived in the area at the lower reaches of the volcano.  You cannot see this house very well but it once was a two story house until it was overrun by lava.  The people who lived there escaped in time but the house collapsed.  It is forbidden to build close to the volcano now.  That being said when Etna erupts she can send ash and rock all the way to Catania.  And that is why they say when they wake up in the morning they look to see what kind of mood Etna is in on that day.  Always in the shadow.

Lava flow areas

There is a path that goes all the way around the volcano.  You can ride your bike or hike around it.  They have cabins along the way that you can sleep in as it will take more than a day to hike around Etna.  The different sides of the volcano are completely different depending on how the lava has flowed.  Its either all black lava rock or the beginnings of vegetation or reforestation.  Always something new to see.

Enoteca dell'Etna

 Following the trip to Etna we stopped in a little town called Ragalna.  With Etna in the background of the Enoteca dell'Etna winery, we spent the rest of the afternoon tasting wine, olive pate, pepper jelly, various amazing olive oils, pistachio cream and various liqueurs.  Michael and I left the winery with some amazing goodies for ourselves and all the great cooks in our family.  A perfect day!  Our next stop will be Siracusa, Sicily and the island off of Siracusa called Ortiga Island.  Just a nice day sail from Catania.