Krka National Park

**THIS POST IS OUT OF SEQUENCE - SORRY**

Krka River

 Down the Krka River in Croatia is this amazing national park.  You can actually take your sailboat down a canal and then enter the river which opens up into a small lake and then on down the river some more to the town of Skradin.  And there you find a marina - a very expensive marina but they have the market cornered😉.  No other game in town.  In the little town, you find the park boat that takes you on down the river to the Krka Park entrance.  The marina is as far as you can go with your own boat as it is very shallow and there is a very low bridge that masts do not fit under.  You could however dinghy to the park but sadly it is not allowed.  The only boats allowed on that stretch of the river are the park boats.

Skradin, Croatia

The magnificent trip down the river alone was worth the time even without the spectacular waterfall at the end of the journey. Waterfalls and swans swimming around your boat are a bonus!!  The swans in the area are plentiful and apparently used to being fed.  They come right up to your boat looking for a bit of food. And that is clearly all they want you for - food.  Absent a handout they just growl at you and move on. 

Talaria among all the charter boats

What we did not know before we came to Croatia is that the country is home to 40% of the worlds charter business.  There are literally charter boats everywhere and it is not even the season yet!  So we always feel a bit like the black swan amongst all the charter boats - the only real cruising boat in the marina.  Of course, coming down the river to the park is a popular trip for the folks chartering - so Skradin marina is a busy place.  

Skradinski Waterfall

There are actually seven travertine waterfalls on the Krka river but with your "entire park" ticket you only see one.  So advertising "entire park" is a bit misleading to say the least.  That being said the one waterfall you see - the Skradinski Buk is phenomenal.  Its actually several travertine formations creating multiple waterfalls that all coalesce.  

Krka National Park

There are a few exhibits to see in the park as well along with souvenir shops and food vendors.  And the hike around the park is very nice.  We went early in the day (before it gets too hot) and were glad we did as the park absolutely fills up around noonish.  

The greenest green

In the river there is also a small island that is home to a Monastery.  It is possible to visit but that, of course, is a separate ticket.  We would have loved to visit the Monastery but ran out of time as we needed to check out of the marina.  For anyone thinking of visiting Krka National Park I would say the trip requires creative and thoughtful planning in order to see what you want to see without breaking the bank.

Krka National Park

From here we are headed north.  When we crossed the Atlantic we were able to join a club called the "Ocean Cruising Club" - membership requires that you have made a passage of 1000 nautical miles nonstop.  We joined as there are benefits such as discounts at marinas as well as the connection to others who are also out sailing the worlds oceans.  One day the "roving rear commodore" of the OCC for eastern Europe reached out to us as he saw that we were close to his location in Croatia.  We decided to meet up in Murter for a visit.  So that is where we are headed next.

Visiting Swan

Touristy Hvar

 

Pakleni Islands

The town of Hvar on the island of Hvar is a tourist mecca.  Being listed as one of the top ten islands in the world to visit by Conde Nast has drawn celebrities to visit - curious to see what its all about.  Although we looked we did not run into Beyonce or Tom Cruise.  However, I did see some drunken Irish folks fall down the stairs 😊.  One of the big attractions of Hvar island is the Pakleni island chain that lies just off the coast.  That is where we decided to stay to avoid the commotion in Hvar town harbor.  A quick taxi boat delivered us to Hvar town for a look about.

Hvar town harbour

The highlight of the Hvar town itself is the 16th century fortress at the top of the hill.  You can take steps from the center of town to the top (we did) and then continue to walk a winding path until you reach the fortress.  The views are from the top of the fortress are stunning.

Hvar Town

 Hvar island is a UNESCO world heritage site that has been inhabited since neolithic times.  Story is that they have been making wine on this island for 2,500 years!! On the Croatian islands we have seen so far, the people live near the coastline and then farm the hillsides.  The fields looks so amazingly steep that you wonder how they get tractors up there.  But apparently they do as they have many, many vineyards and lavender fields. Croatians still make a lot of wine but it is not exported as they do not have enough growing space for that. 

Hvar town

Hvar and Dubrovnik are probably two of the best known towns in Croatia and they are beautiful for certain.  But we are withholding judgement until we see more of the country.  One thing is for certain - there are many, many charter boats here.  Something like 40% of the worlds charter trade is here in Croatia.  Its an easy place to sail - good for beginners.  Our experience so far is that there has not been enough wind.  Talaria is a "fat bottomed girl" as Michael likes to say, so she needs more that 5 knots of wind to move her.

Hillside fields

The good part is that its usually nice and still at night which is good when you are anchored.  Unlike Greece where the katabatic winds coming off the mountains try to blow you away!  Greece is a lion and Croatia the lamb.

Monastery/Nunnery

Talaria gets several looks and comments because folks are not used to seeing a boat like her around here.  She is a serious ocean going vessel - solid and sturdy.  Built for the open ocean and for safety - everything about her says "seaworthy".  Also, the American flag throws people off - Americans are also an oddity here.  We are asked all the time - "how did you get here?  Did you sail your boat all the way across the Atlantic Ocean?" 

Streets of Old Town Hvar

 Next stop will be Stari Grad which is also on the island of Hvar and then on to Split.