The Vatican

Entrance to the Vatican Museums

 As is well known the Vatican is a completely sovereign city state within the city of Rome.  It has the unique distinction of being the smallest city state in the world both in population (about 825) and size (about 120 acres). Being a theocracy ruled by the Pope it is therefore mandatory that all citizens/ residents of the Vatican be Catholic.  Not only must the citizens and residents be Catholic but all visitor guides must also be Catholic.  Their economy is supported by fees imposed on visitors to the museums and by souvenirs they sell to those same visitors.

Laocoön and his sons

As one of the most visited museums in the world the significant revenue from those visitors fees is easy to appreciate.  In 2019, there were 6.9 million visitors but by 2020 that number had dropped by around 80%!!  2020 saw only 1.3 million visitors as COVID was busy wrecking the world.  There is of course nothing good about COVID but it did mean that when we visited in 2021 we were able to just walk right in - no lines, no waiting and relatively small crowds.  Awesome!!

Raphael "School of Athens"

The Vatican museums are home to some of the worlds most renowned masterpieces of Renaissance art not the least of which is Michelangelo's masterpiece in the Sistine Chapel.  So revered is Michelangelo's ceiling that complete silence is demanded while in the Chapel in order to contemplate the sanctity of the moment.  There are also no photos allowed.  So you must go see it with your own eyes😇.  

Gallery of Maps

There are 54 museums to visit housed in 1400 rooms - needless to say it is impossible to see the immense collection of art in one visit.  All told Popes over the years have collected 70,000 artworks yet only 20,000 of those are on display for the public to view.  Being sailors one of the highlights for us was the Gallery of Maps.  On display are a series of painted maps of Italy that were commissioned in 1580 by Pope Gregory XIII.  Each fresco depicts a region of Italy while the paintings of the ceiling near each area depict important events from that region. 
 

Ceiling in the Gallery of Maps

The Vatican is also home for the Pope or at least former Popes.  Popes usually live in the Apostolic Palace papal apartments but not Pope Francis.  He instead lives in a two room apartment in the Domus Santa Marta which is essentially a hotel inside of the Vatican for housing visitors.  Preferring to live a modest life the current Pope keeps it simple which further endears him to Romans.  Such a beautiful place... we are already planning our return trip.

 

ROMA

 

St. Peters Basilica

Rome -an iconic city of contrasts.  Home to both the largest church in the entire world and the largest ancient amphitheatre ever built - known for violence and death for spectator entertainment.  History abounds around every corner in this magnificent city. Since our flight back to the US was out of Rome  we decided to fly to Rome early and spend a few days visiting the city.  Covid still controls the world so international travel is both more complicated and more expensive.  Despite the Covid burden we were determined to see as much of Rome as possible in three days.

St. Peters Basilica

 What we discovered is that three days is not nearly enough time for a visit to Rome.  As a matter of fact as soon as we left we started planning our return visit!  We did try to see the iconic sites: the Vatican, St. Peters Basilica, the Coliseum, the Pantheon and as many of the Piazzas as we could find.  We had booked guided tours of the Vatican and the Coliseum which we highly recommend.  It just adds so much to hear the history behind what you are seeing.  But then you need to go back a second time for photos as it is difficult to attend to both at the same time.  And again - you really want to be tuned into the guide.  They are walking, talking history books.

St. Peters Square

Due to the pandemic there are not the crowds that are usually seen in Rome so we were able to see far more than we would have in normal times.  We were very grateful that we spent no time standing in lines.  Along with the rest of the world we have seen photos and TV footage of St. Peters Basilica yet still we were  blown away by the sheer immensity and stunning beauty of the church.  The church is the burial place of St. Peter and also holds the tombs of several other popes.  The entire interior is filled with marble sculptures, gilding, paintings and reliefs by Bernini, Michelangelo and others - making it appear more art museum than church. 

 Oculus in St. Peters

 To see one beautiful sculpture is a gift - to see an entire cathedral full of the most beautiful architecture and sculptures imaginable is almost more than you can take in.  For us it was like seeing the Sistine Chapel - you are just so overwhelmed that it leaves you speechless.  Of course, St. Peters Basilica is a UNESCO world heritage site as is pretty much all of Rome.

Inside St. Peters Basilica

We were visiting St. Peters in the evening after a tour of the Vatican.  As such, there were only a few people inside allowing us more time to contemplate.  Yet, still not enough time to take it all in.  That would take many, many more days, if not years.

Inside St. Peters Basilica

Sadly, due to the lighting photos were not great.  Especially of Michelangelos  - "The Pieta".  The Pieta is the only work that Michelangelo ever signed.  It is a heavenly gift to us all that we are privileged to behold.  Sadly, the Pieta had to be put behind bulletproof glass as someone attacked the sculpture with a hammer.  It has been restored and protected.  Unfortunately, the protective glass box makes it more difficult to view the piece.

 

The Throne of St. Peter - Bernini

 

 

 

 

A visit to St. Peters Basilica alone is a perfect reason to visit Rome.  Photos just do not do it justice.  You have to see it in its entirety - not just a small snapshot. However the entire city is a stroll through the renaissance that is unforgettable.  There are many, many reasons to visit Rome but a visit would be incomplete without a walk through St. Peters Basilica.