Ribeira Grande, Sao Miquel

One of the Yellow Bus stops is the town of Ribeira Grande.  The town is named for the river that runs through it.  Ribeira Grande is known for its rich architecture - with buildings dating back to the 16th century.

 The architecture is impressive.  And in the middle of town where the river runs they put in a nice park with flower gardens. 

We did not hang out there for a very long - but it was nice to stop and see the town.

After our short stop in Ribeira Grande we hopped back on the bus to see the rest of the stops on this side of the Island.

The Highlands of Sao Miquel

Path to Caldeira Velha

As I was fretting over when the engine would arrive, Emanual the mechanic said "Have you seen the Island yet?"  Well no we hadn't - all thoughts were on when the engine would arrive.  He proceeded to show me all his favorite places in the highlands of the Island on the computer.  So... we decided to jump on a Yellow Bus and go check out the highlands.  The Yellow Tour Bus is a hop on/hop off bus - we got a two day ticket - a day on each side of the Island.  The first day took us to the eastern side of the Island.  

Caldeira Velha

 We got off the bus at Caldeira Velha - an area of natural hot springs.  All of the Azores are volcanic islands, the Fogo Volcano heats up these springs.  The whole area is lush and has the largest ferns I have ever seen.

Natural Hot Springs at Caldeira Velha

 There is a waterfall flowing into the hot spring.  The iron in the water gives it an orange hue - not great on the clothes, but these kids don't seem to mind.  

Boiling Spring

 This spring is very near the bathing spring but here the water is actually boiling.  You can see the steam coming up from the spring.

Steam from the Spring

We did not actually get in the water so I can't say how warm it actually was but it looked pretty warm.

Lagoa do Fogo - "Fire Lake"

 Our next stop was at Lagoa do Fogo or "Fire Lake".  Stunningly beautiful!  This lake is actually in the volcanic crater.  If you look thru the V you can see the Atlantic Ocean.  The same Atlantic Ocean that we just sailed across! 

 From the highlands we had good view of the towns and patchwork fields down below.  Just beautiful - a nature lovers paradise.  A trip to the Azores should be on everyone's bucket list - it is not to be missed.

More Sao Miquel...

Ponta Delgada, Sao Miquel

I think that what I will remember the most about Ponta Delgada are the sidewalks and street cafes.  The sidewalks are all made with volcanic rock and white stone.  And they all have different themes with no two sidewalks being alike.  And more impressively... it was all laid by hand!  Just beautiful.  

The streets of Ponta Delgada come alive with street cafes.  It is rare to see a restaurant that has its patrons inside!  Ponta Delgada has some food trucks but they also had a wine truck!  Folks would get a glass of wine and just go sit down somewhere to enjoy.  No prohibition on drinking a glass of wine on the street there.  

Sao Miquel as well as the other Azorean Islands is a volcanic island.  The island is lush and green.  While they are known for their dairy products cows are not the only thing they raise.  All over the countryside you will see small crops being grown.  What is interesting is that there are no really big fields just many small plots.  The farm plots are separated by trees or bamboo that serve as a hedgerow.  Occasionally there are small stone fences around the field.  So... the whole countryside looks like a patchwork quilt.

Patchwork

It is so pretty to look at.  And so different from the large scale farming that we are used to seeing.  Even the animals are kept in these small enclosures but often they just roam free.  There are no barbed wire or electric fences keeping the cows in so if they want to go to another field they just go.  Cows walking in the street makes driving a bit interesting.

Typical Hedgerow

Cows on the move

And there is no rushing them along - they just go at their own pace!  Such an interesting place - the people are like the cows... no rushing.  If you go out to eat it takes awhile as they expect you to just enjoy your meal.  They seem perplexed when you are asking for your check.  Crazy Americans - always in a hurry!  I could definitely get used to this laid back lifestyle.

Sao Miquel

Talaria in Ponta Delgada

On June 3rd we left in the evening from Terceira for an overnight passage to the next Azorean island - Sao Miquel.  It was chilly and rough out that evening. The wind was about 20 knots or more and we were sailing well but the waves were hitting us hard on the starboard stern quarter.  At one point it sounded like an explosion as the force of the water collided with the hull.  That brought me out of my berth in a flash to see what in the world was going on.  Were we over canvassed?  Pushing the boat too hard?  Michael and Matt were already rolling in some of the genny hoping to smooth out the ride. All night long the wind stayed in the 20s allowing us to sail the entire way.  In the morning, just as we got into the lee of Sao Miquel our speed dropped off to around 3 knots or less.  I was on watch and decided to start the engine to get us into port as we were very close at this point.  Well when we went to start the engine all we heard was a clicking noise.  That should have been the first clue that something was not quite right.  But... being foolish and tired we continued to try to start the motor a few more times.  Then Michael heard the engine and said to stop!  He thought the engine might be hydrolocked... and it turns out he was right.  Meanwhile the attempts to start the engine only served to burn up the starter which we discovered when the smoke alarm went off.  We called Rally control and were towed into a slip. 

Downtown Ponta Delgada

Of course, we were hoping that it was only the starter that was the problem.  We found a Yanmar mechanic and placed a call.  Emanuel (the mechanic) said he would be over that day.  So... we sent the guys off to do rally things and Michael and I waited...and waited.  Just when we were thinking he would not show - he appeared.  He said it did not look good and that the engine was indeed hydrolocked but that he would be back in the am to look into it further.  Sadly, the next day it was even worse - he told us we would need a new engine.  Yikes!!  

Beautiful Ponta Delgada

Emanuel said he could rebuild the engine but that would take some time figuring out what all was damaged and then ordering all the parts.  And in the end you would have new parts mixed with old parts on a 30 year old engine. We decided to bite the bullet and purchase the new engine.  So the rally was now over for us as we would be in Ponta Delgada for weeks waiting on the new engine to arrive.  With that news we had to start finding a way to get Ben and Matt to Lagos.  Of course, we could easily have just put them on a plane.  However, they wanted to finish what they started.  Even though they had made it to Portugal in everyone's eyes the transatlantic crossing was complete upon reaching mainland Portugal.  Fortunately, Dottie and Will on Amari were willing to take Ben on their boat and Karma Daze took Matt with them.  

Our favorite restaurant - Tasca

After mourning the loss of our engine for a couple of days we decided to just enjoy lovely Sao Miquel.  We quickly found a favorite restaurant - Tasca.  Our mission became trying as much on the menu as possible in the time we had.  We did not even make a dent in the menu but we had some really great meals and tried alot of different foods.  

We also discovered the fantastic "farmers market" in Ponta Delgada.  We walked there at least once a week.  

Tons of really great produce and a wide selection of freshly caught fish.  Heaven!  Since we had weeks of waiting we set out to explore the rest of the island.  Sao Miquel is a beautiful island - there are far worse places to be stuck.

Running of the bulls

Terceira is one of the bigger islands of the Azores.  Beautiful cathedrals and ancient forts dot the island.  The Azores were a vital stop along the all important spice trade route and that fact was not lost on the Portuguese. Therefore an elaborate system of forts were built to protect Angra bay from pirates.  

Sao Joao Baptista Fort

 This fort sits on the slope of Mount Brasil and it is quite a trek to get up to it.   Apparently, that was part of the strategy - to have the enemy fatigued by the time they climbed up to the fort.  Construction on this particular fort began in 1593!!  It is now part of the UNESCO world heritage site that includes the town of Angra.  

Angra do Heroismo

Terceira Marina

Red Tile Roofs

The ARC rally had arranged for us all to see the running of the bulls while in Terceira.  An event that takes place all over the islands in the summertime.  We took a taxi to a little town to see what it was all about. The taxi driver was stringing us along pretending that he spoke no English, only Portuguese.  Ha, Ha - joke was on us.  He actually spoke perfect English which we found out when we said we were not getting in the street with the bulls!  

 So the guys in the white shirts and hats actually have the bulls tethered so they don't totally run free.  But it is a mistake to think they are holding them back - quite the opposite.  They are actually pulling the bulls towards you (if you are crazy enough to be in the street)!  

Run!!

 Most folks hide behind the barricades - but as we found out that does not always matter to the bulls.  One of them came charging through a little entry that folks were using to get behind the barricade.  He did not get all the way through - thank goodness!  Scared the daylights out of Matt as he was standing right near there.  

 All the while people are taunting the bulls - doing their best to get them agitated.  Fireworks, yelling, waving scarves - anything they can do to get them riled up.  

 As it turns out one of the bulls that evening managed to jump over a wall where some folks were hiding and roust them out of their hidey hole.  Thank goodness no one was hurt.  All in all it is part of the Portuguese culture and worth experiencing - but for me once was enough.  Tomorrow we will do an overnight sail to Sao Miquel. 

Angra do Heroismo

Igreja Da Misericordia

Angra do Heroismo or Bay of Heros is not the original name of the city but one given to the city later in honor of battles fought and won in a civil war.  In 1983, Angra was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  After being devastated by an earthquake they meticulously brought the city back to its original historic form.  Protecting the culture of this beautiful city earned them the UNESCO designation. 

 The beautiful whitewashed buildings and the volcanic rock sidewalks all with different patterns are stunning.

I am amazed at all the time and effort they put into those sidewalks - all by hand.

And in the middle of the city are these beautiful gardens.  The Azores were an important stop in the trade route from Europe to the Indies.  When ships would stop plants were gathered and planted in the garden. It is an amazing collection of plants from all over the world.  

Mark and Cecilie - Rally folks in their bright yellow shirts

There was a walking tour of the city starting at the top of the steps.  It ended up being a two hour walking tour which we were not quite up for after sitting on a boat for so long!

 The tour took us by the magnificent cathedrals.

 
 Our friends dropped out of the tour after a bit for lunch... but we kept going.

 So pretty - definitely my favorite island so far.  But I haven't seen them all so I will reserve judgement. 

Terceira Island

-

Sailing near Sao Jorge Island

On the 1st of June we set sail for Terceira.  Horta was still a busy place and there was a boat rafted up to us.  We had told them that we were leaving at first light and sure enough they were up and ready to move their boat to let us out.  Its amazing how everyone cooperates to move the boats around.  And no-one bats an eye when you are climbing over their boat to get to the dock.  Everyone is doing it - its the European way.  They are used to rafting up - we Americans are not.  It was blowing 20 plus knots that morning and we were sailing downwind which was great.  A very comfortable ride for awhile anyway.  

Terceira Island

 As the day wore on though the wind died off leaving a lumpy, rolly sea state.  Our comfortable ride became less so... but to compensate we were visited by a large pod of dolphins.  Most of them were babies - playing and jumping out of the water!  So much fun to watch.  And then as we got close to Terceira we saw a whale.  Ben and Matt were so excited!  They wanted to move closer but I am always hesitant to inch up too close to a whale - my instinct is to move away.  The Azores Archipelago is home to many resident species of whales and dolphins.  In addition, they have seasonal visitors, migratory visitors and some that only occasionally visit such as the Orcas.  The dolphins we saw were striped dolphins - I had never seen that species before.  Pretty exciting!

Angra do Heroismo, Terceira

 The marina while protected by the sea wall still has a considerable amount of swell.  It is necessary to really secure your boat well.  Our boat and several of the other boats had their lines chafe through.  We are going to have to re-think our methods for securing the boat as swell is typical in the Med as well.  Yet another beautiful north atlantic island!