Thursday, September 12, 2019

Lisbon

Jeronimos Monastery
It was clear to us that there was an air leak in the fuel line so after our night at anchor outside of Lagos, Portugal we started thinking about how to get into the marina.  Michael and Bill decided to bypass the main fuel line long enough to get into the marina.  They set to work and once completed we decided it would be best to drive around the anchorage a little bit before heading up the canal to Marina de Lagos.  Everything seemed fine so we headed on up the canal.  We made it but... the engine did still die a few times.  Very stressful!!  Once in the slip we let the engine run for awhile and of course then, it did not die one time!  We got all settled in and made arrangements with the mechanic but then sadly, it was time for Bill to return to the US.  He was flying out of Lisbon so we booked an apartment in the Belem district for a day of touring prior to his flight.  We didn't have much time but we were determined to see as much as possible in the time we had.  Fortunately, the apartment was right down the street from Jeronimos Monastery so that was our first stop.  Jeronimos, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was built to commemorate Vasco de Gama's return from India.  Ironically, where the monastery was built was once the site of the church where Vasco and his fellow sailors prayed before setting off on their epic journey.  Vasco de Gama came full circle as his tomb now rests in the Monastery's church. 
It took 100 years to complete this monastery which is completely understandable with all the hand carved figures and ornate decoration.  There is a good deal of maritime decoration in addition to all the religious symbolism.  A nice little nod to the sailors which was fitting as it was built in honor of Vasco de Gama's sailing adventures.
 During the Liberal Revolution in Portugal all the convents and monasteries were shut down and the clergy were expelled.  Folks from Jeronimos decided to sell pastries that they had made at the monastery in an attempt to survive. There was a sugar refinery near the monastery and they began baking in the buildings attached to the refinery.  The little custard tarts became known as Pasteis de Belem.  Eventually, the bakery (and recipe) were sold to one family.  
That family still makes the pastry with the same ancient recipe in the same old traditional ways.  After touring, the monastery we walked down the street to try out those little pastries.  The line was down the block!!  A very popular spot it seems. Of course, once we tried the Pasteis de Belem we knew why that line was so long.  
Santa Maria Church - In the Monastery
The monastery just takes your breath away - you just marvel at the skill and dedication required to complete this masterpiece that is Jeronimos.  So grateful that we were all able to visit before Bill had to leave.  One wing of the monastery has been turned in to a maritime museum.  Our friend says it is the nicest maritime museum he has ever seen - a must see when in Lisbon.  So... next stop is definitely the maritime museum.  More on that in the next post.

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