Sunday, April 30, 2023

Catania - Sicily

Cathedral

 Another uneventful overnight passage, the most exciting part was nearing the Messina Straits.  As we got closer to the Straits the ship traffic got heavier and heavier requiring us to be even more alert.  Yet somehow we managed to get across the shipping lanes without having to dodge any tankers or cargo ships.  Amazing!  

St. Agatha Cathedral

 We had made a reservation at a marina so that we could take a day and go see Mt. Etna.  Catania is a busy commercial port but there are still a couple of marinas in the port.  As we approached the marina I hailed them on the VHF radio... no answer.  I tried again... no answer.  So I picked up my phone and called the marina.  Someone answered and when I asked if he spoke English he hung up.  We have had this experience before - Italians speak Italian.  And being a visitor in this country I should also speak Italian (which I am learning) but being both a slow learner and an arrogant American, I wanted to speak in my language.  So we hovered outside the marina trying to figure out what to do.

Dinner!!

Before long we saw all this activity at the dock.  Several people were standing out there, also trying to figure out what to do.  Finally, someone waved us over and no fewer than six people helped us get docked.  Everyone was so helpful and friendly.  Later we found out that they  never see American boats there, so they were stunned.  And pleased, I think (hope).  I made a vow right then - I will speak to Italians in Italian.  

Another Cathedral

We got checked in, had a well deserved nap and then headed off on a walk into to town looking for some dinner.  Next day we set off to explore the town and the beautiful cathedrals.  We were surprised to meet a young man at the marina (on the sailboat across from us) from Florida.  A very good kid who is out exploring the world in his own way.  He filled us in on some things about Sicily.  Like what the Guarda Costeria does with the boats that they confiscate from human traffickers (those folks illegally bringing migrants to Italy).  The fee for putting your life in extreme danger for the very slim chance of reaching Europe is 9000.00 euro.  How destitute and desperate people come up with that kind of money is a mystery.  Often the boats capsize or sink but some are confiscated.  Three sailboats and one fishing boat were at the dock - all seized by the Guarda Costeria.  Eventually, they give those boats to local non-profits.  For instance, the sailboats are given to a non-profit that is teaching kids to sail.  Its nice to think of some good coming out of that tragic situation.

Sculpture
 

Catania is a city of contrasts.  There are beautiful cathedrals and sculptures that live in trash strewn streets.  People are so conscious of how they dress, they plant flowers in flower boxes and sweep the dirt from the front of their shops - all while the trash literally floats in the air on a breezy day.  Its a bit hard to comprehend because we know that the trash detracts from all the beauty... yet they don't seem to notice.  Regardless, it did not make me like the city less.  As a matter of fact when I heard someone suggest that Catania be bypassed as it was just a "sh- - hole" - I took offense.  I immediately thought of all those folks that came to help us dock Talaria.  There is good and bad everywhere - often side by side.  We prefer to look for the good.


   

Restaurant

We were enjoying Catania and the folks we met there.  Maybe our experience is not like the experience that others have had here, but I would not bypass the town.  We think it is worth a visit.

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